Mazatlan
Currency & Best Way to Get Money
ATMs are widely accessible if you want to get Mexican pesos, but U.S. dollars are accepted everywhere. If you are making an expensive purchase in a shop you are best off paying with a credit card. Having dollar bills to pay for cab fares and trinkets is helpful
Best Souvenir
Sombreros (big Mexican hats), Mexican craft items and silver jewelry. In the Golden Zone a recommended shop for Mexican handicrafts is Madonna. A good choice in Old Mazatlan, in addition to the bustling market, is Nidart Gallery, near the Teatro Angela Peralta
Where You're Docked
The commercial port -- and because it's a bustling cargo port you are taken on a free tram to the cruise terminal. Here you'll find a festive atmosphere with timeshare vendors trying to give you free rides (if you look at their properties), craft vendors and shops, including a pharmacy where you can buy Viagra and other medications without a prescription. There are tables set up under shade trees if you have a hankering for a cold beer. There's also a second, quieter crafts market across from the chaos of the cruise ship terminal
Getting Around
It's a one-mile (15- to 20-minute) walk to Old Mazatlan, but you'll need a cab to get to the Golden Zone (about four miles from the pier). Cabs are readily available outside the cruise terminal as are open-air, golf-cart-type vehicles called Pulmonia. The fare to either Old Mazatlan or the Golden Zone is about $10 per cab. Walkers should be aware that crossing streets can be a challenge (the drivers here aren't necessary pedestrian-cautious) and the curbs in Old Mazatlan are quite high. Major car rental locations are in town; National is right at the pier
Don't Miss
 Old Mazatlan has a surprising number of historical sites including a Moorish-style cathedral, ornate with a gold-vaulted ceiling (you can visit for free but donations to the restoration fund are accepted). Across the street is the Plaza Republica, downtown's central gathering place, where pigeons frolic, shoeshine vendors do their thing and Victorian iron benches are perfect venues for people-watching. The park also has an impressive Victorian band stand. A few blocks behind the cathedral is Central Market (Mercado Pino Suarez), where you can buy anything from sombreros to raw meat (bargaining is encouraged). Walk back towards the church and continue a few blocks to the very impressive Teatro Angela Peralta, which occupies one side of the attractive square known as Plazuela Machado. The Italian-style theatre, dating to the 1800s and named for a famous diva, has been lovingly restored -- it is now a national historic landmark -- and is simply gorgeous. Admission is $1.30 and worth every penny. Upstairs, you can learn how the theatre was previously in such bad shape from storm damage that a ficus tree was growing where the stage was supposed to be. Elsewhere on Plazuela Machado and its surrounds are refreshing sidewalk cafes, pretty colonial-style historic buildings and colorful homes, some of which are now galleries. If you want to explore the Old Mazatlan art scene you can pick up a map of galleries and artist studios at the tourist office on Mariano Escabedo. Other attractions include the free Museo de Arqueologia (archeological museum) and the Museo de Arta (art museum).
Watch the daring high-flying divers off of Divers Point, a 10-minute walk (or quick taxi ride) from Old Mazatlan. Typically they perform when a crowd gathers.
The Golden Zone has shopping, glitzy hotels, people-watching and beach-bumming on the sunny, palm-lined beaches. The main drag is Rodolfo T. Loaiza; ask your taxi driver to drop you at the Hotel Playa Mazatlan, which is pretty much in the thick of things. Playa Sabalo and Playa Las Gaviotas, two of the beaches in front of hotels in the Golden Zone, are centrally located and offer activities from people-watching to water sports (snorkeling, jet skiing, parasailing). The quieter Playa Los Cerritos is just north of the Golden Zone's activity hub.
If you're traveling with kids, consider a stop in the Mazatlan Aquarium. Located between downtown and the Golden Zone, it boasts trained sea lion and exotic bird shows, and some 300 species of marine life. On the way you will pass an enormous sculpture of a nude woman, reclining on an anchor, known as Fisherman's Monument (Monumento al Pescador).
Been There, Done That
Eco-tours: You can go kayaking around Mazatlan's offshore islands. There's birdwatching in mangrove swamps and the Sierra Madre Mountains. Sailing trips are offered to Deer Island, a protected National Reserve.
Sportfishing for marlin.
Tour the old mining towns of the Sierra Madres, where the streets are cobbled and the rooftops red tile. Villages of note include Concordia, founded in the 1500s and a center for ceramic pottery and handmade wooden furniture, and Copala, a colonial mining village turned artist colony.
Lunching
In Old Mazatlan, Cafe Pacifico (Constitucion and Heriberto Frias) has outdoor cafe seating, lovely service and a new-Mexican cuisine menu, and El Shrimp Bucket (Olas Altos) has the first of its restaurants now found at several Mexican resorts. In the Golden Zone there are plenty of places to eat fresh fish and shrimp, most along Rodolfo T. Loaiza -- walk along and browse the menus posted out front. Among them are Ernie Tomato's (#403), La Fontana (#317), The Shrimp Factory (Av. de las Garzas #14) and The No Name Cafe (#407). Pancho's Restoran (#408) has awesome fresh margaritas and excellent Mexican fare, not to mention a beachfront location. In other parts of the Golden Zone are Senor Frogs, the restaurant/bar/cult destination with deafening music, located a brisk couple of blocks south. For an ultra-casual meal, Panama, a family-friendly chain of pasteleria and restaurants, is located in a variety of neighborhoods including at the Cathedral (Old Town) and the Golden Zone (in front of the Hotel Las Palmas).
Shore Excursions
Best Choices for Active Nature Lovers: Travel by catamaran to Deer Island (about 40 minutes) for a swim on the beach or a guided hike, then kayak for 45 minutes along the island's shore.
Best Choice for Less Active Nature Lovers: Travel on a shaded, open-air launch through mangrove channels that are home to pelicans, blue herons, sea hawks and osprey (the 6 1/2-hour tour also includes beach time, lunch and optional horseback riding).
Best Choice for Repeat Visitors: Take a full-day Sierra Madre Tour to the colonial towns of Concordia and Copala
Staying in Touch
Right at the pier is the International Communications Center; phone calls to the U.S. cost 75 cents per minute, and Internet access is available for $2 for 15 minutes, $3 for 30 minutes or $4 for 60 minutes. CompuSoporte (Avenue del Mar #4) is an Internet Cafe in the Golden Zone.
Watch the daring high-flying divers off of Divers Point, a 10-minute walk (or quick taxi ride) from Old Mazatlan. Typically they perform when a crowd gathers.
Cabo San Lucas
Currency & Best Way to Get Money
ATMs are widely accessible if you want to get Mexican pesos, but U.S. dollars are accepted everywhere. If you are making an expensive purchase in a shop, you are best off paying with a credit card. Havingdollar bills to pay for cab fares and trinkets is helpful
Best Souvenir
Anything with the Cabo Wabo logo. At the shop at the cantina you can buy T-shirts, wool caps, even underwear. And don't forget a bottle or two of Cabo Wabo Tequila, 100 percent blue agave (it's good stuff!). Another option, Cabo Chips, sold around town, are flavored tortilla chips, with profits going to local charities
Where You're Docked
Ships anchor offshore and tender passengers to the marina, which is a pleasant 10-minute waterfront walk to the heart of Cabo San Lucas. Not shy about pursuing cruise ship business, the town is usually wide open at 8 a.m. (even at that time you can have breakfast at Cabo Wabo or go parasailing). Even the pelicans are out early
Getting Around
The town center is very walkable though taxis, mostly of the sedan type (as opposed to safari cabs), do line up at the marina. For explorations beyond the city limits, your best bet is to rent a car; among the agencies that have offices in town are National, Budget, Alamo and Dollar
Don't Miss
Start by admiring El Arco, Cabo's premier site. It's one of the last two rocks that mark "land's end." Basically, El Arco is a big rock with a wide arch cut through it by generations of tides and sea. You can see it from the marina, from any of the cascading patios at Da Georgio II (a restaurant just outside of town) or by taking a boat trip in which the vessel sails through it.
Cabo San Lucas has loads of party restaurants to choose from, including El Squid Roe, Hard Rock Cafe, Coyote Ugly and Carlos 'n' Charlie's. The ultimate? Cabo Wabo Cantina, Concert Hall & Restaurant, which opens at 8 a.m. and is owned by rocker Sammy Hagar.
Numerous party-boat-style expeditions (mostly half-day) are available. Charter operators have booths at the marina where you can sign up on the spot.
Shop for tourist trinkets downtown (pretty much the same stuff you find at every other Mexican Pacific port); finds include glassware, silver jewelry, rugs and Indian blankets.
If you want to hit the beach, Playa Medano, fronting the Bahia de Cabo and the Sea of Cortez is a quick taxi ride from the marina. Also nearby is Playa Mendano, where all sorts of watersports rentals are available. If you rent a car, head to the "corridor" between Cabo San Lucas and San Jose del Cabo, which rings the Sea of Cortez, and pick a beach, any beach. Closer in, Playa del Amor (Lover's Beach) is snuggled between rock formations near El Arco and fronts both the bay and the Sea of Cortez; you need to hire a water taxi to drop you off and pick you up (they are easily accessible at the marina). Be aware there are no facilities, so bring a picnic
Been There, Done That
Rent a car and drive to San Jose. A 20-minute drive from Cabo San Lucas along a winding highway that rings the Sea of Cortez, San Jose is charming, historic and peaceful. Its adobe storefronts are centered around Plaza Mijares, with its green grass and shading trees. There's a historic mission, but the real diversion here is boutique shopping for handmade jewelry, sporty cotton fashions, artwork and high-end house-gifty items. You won't see too many tourist trinkets here.
Shops worth checking out include LaPaloma Boutique (Plaza Catedral, Calle Zaragoza) for easy-fitting yet sophisticated cotton casualwear made in Mexico; Add (Zaragoza, Centro) for gorgeous handmade picture frames, candlesticks and other home accessories; Mina (Hidalgo #33) for gorgeous one-of-a-kind gold and silver jewelry; and Algo Diferente En Los Cabos (Hidalgo #11) for artwork. San Jose is also a great lunching spot; charming options include Cafe Florentina (Zaragoza #20) for Mediterranean fare (gorgeous patio). Another great patio lunch spot is the aptly named El Patio (Boulevard Mijares 1357). Tropicana Inn Bar & Grill (Blvd. Mijares #30) has a great people-watching sidewalk cafe and is a locals' favorite eatery as well. While in San Jose, stop by Cacti Mundo, a botanical garden featuring hundreds of different types of live, growing cacti.
At Vitrofusion Y Arte (otherwise known as the Fabrica de Vidrio) on Cabo's outskirts, you can watch artisans create and design glass the old-fashioned way; there's also an on-site gift shop where they sell their reasonably priced merchandise (such as pitchers, decorative items, glassware). Glassware made here is also available from a number of stores in town. Scuba divers should head to Land's End, the southern tip of the Baja peninsula, where you might see manta rays, amberjack, grouper and dolphins.
Golf is huge here with at least a half-dozen courses welcoming day visitors. The most famous is The Ocean Course at Cabo del Sol, designed by Jack Nicklaus, boasting ocean and desert views, and rated as one of the world's top 100 by Golf Magazine.
Deep-sea fishing! Cabo San Lucas considers itself the "marlin capital of the world", and regardless of which fish are running, there are numerous sportfishing operators that take individuals and groups on half- and full-day excursions. Some restaurants in town will even cook your catch
Lunching
In Cabo San Lucas, El Shrimp Bucket (Blvd. Marina, Mariena Fiesta) is a fun Mexican chain known for fresh seafood. Other options, among many, include The Crazy Lobster (Hidalgo Street) and Pacho's (Hidalgo Street). On Playa Medano try Las Palmas (Playa El Medano) for great seafood and an unbeatable view. O Mole Mio (Marina Blvd., Plaza del Sol) dishes up nouvelle Mexican. Da Giorgio II (Misiones del Cabo) is set amidst a series of cascading pools and offers a simply gorgeous view of El Arco (10 minutes outside of town, it requires a taxi ride or rental car).
Shore Excursions
Best Choice for Active Types: Book an ocean kayaking and snorkel tour, which will take you by paddle across San Lucas Bay, passing Pelican Rock and circling the dramatic rock arches of Los Arcos. Continue to Lover's Beach, part of a marine sanctuary, where you can snorkel, swim and sunbathe. As an optional choice, book a beach horseback riding excursion.
Best Choice for Thrill Seekers: Take a Baja ATV Adventure tour. You get to experience the desert on the self-drive excursions, and the tour also includes a nature hike. If that's not thrilling enough, book a sportfishing tour (but keep in mind a catch is not guaranteed).
Best Choice for Nature Lovers: From January to March, whales visit Cabo including humpbacks, grays and blues. You get close on a 15-person Zodiac, and the experience is amazing.
Staying in Touch
At the El Dorado liquor store they will let you use the Internet for free (in the Costa Real Cabo mall on the opposite side of the marina from where you arrive). San Francisco Coffee has wireless access on the marina near #5 dock. The Internet Cafe (Marina Blvd., Plaza Nautica) is tucked behind Cafe Europa.
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Puerto Vallarta
Currency & Best Way to Get Money
The peso is the currency used in Mexico and is roughly valued at 10 to one against the dollar. Almost all shops, vendors and taxis take U.S. dollars, but that can raise the cost of your purchase. ATMs are available everywhere and most allow you to deduct as little as 50 pesos, (or about $5 U.S.). It's important to note that the symbol for pesos is the same as the symbol for dollars -- $ -- so pay close attention to the currency in which the item you are looking at is priced. $14 in pesos, for example, is roughly $1.40 U.S., not $14 U.S.
Where You're Docked
Ships dock at the Marina Vallarta Maritime Terminal, about three miles north of downtown. The number of ships calling at Puerto Vallarta has increased beyond the capacity of the docks, though, and many ships are on a rotating tender schedule. Check your cruise itinerary to verify whether you will dock or tender into port.
Best Souvenir
Talavera pottery is distinctive because of its intricate patterns and bright colors. You can purchase single tiles or enough to make a mural, single bowls as gifts, or serving sets for four. There are also less expensive designs that make great gifts and souvenirs -- painted flowerpots or fruit bowls, for example -- in most of the pottery shops around the city.
Mexican silver jewelry used to be a real bargain, but it's hard to find a good deal on it now. Make sure it's stamped "925" to verify that it's real sterling, and bargain hard. If you like it and you think you've been given a fair price, you probably have.
Hanging Around
There are several restaurants and botegas near where the ships dock for those who want a final margarita before setting sail, and a small craft market to pick up those last-minute souvenirs. There are also some notable hotels with bars and restaurants that overlook the marina and the water, lovely spots to sit and watch the sunset (if your ship leaves after dark) or the sailboats coming back to the marina. Depending on which dock your ship uses, the Plaza Iguana Resort, Flamingos Vallarta, or Vista Club Playa de Oro are all within reasonable walking distance.
For those who just can't get enough of U.S.- style shopping, there are both a WalMart and a Sam's Club directly across the main boulevard from the ship docking areas, about a 10-minute walk away. Tequilas and Kahlua are definitely better priced here than in the duty-free liquor stores in town or near the ships.
Located in the Plaza Marisol adjacent to the port is an Internet Cafe, El Kiosko, with several terminals at a reasonable rate and an international phone center, and at Plaza Neptuno in the marina is The Internet B@r serving breakfast, sandwiches and Mexican specialties along with your broadband connection.
Getting Around
Taxis are plentiful and line up around the docks as the ships start disgorging passengers. They are regulated, but have no meters and the prices aren't posted. Negotiate before you get in; a trip to town in a taxi from the Marina Vallarta area should cost no more than $5 U.S. The yellow taxis, located outside of the port gates, are less expensive than those of the drivers walking around inside; the latter drive Federal Zone cabs, which cost more.
Buses in Puerto Vallarta are great fun, and very reasonably priced at 4 pesos (or about $0.50 U.S.) for a trip. They can be found on the main road into the city (Av. Francisco Medina Ascencio) and make several stops along the Hotel Zone before arriving into the center of Puerto Vallarta.
Rental cars are plentiful and quite reasonable, especially the ubiquitous VW Beetles seen everywhere. Be sure to check before you make a rental arrangement whether your insurance will cover you while driving in Mexico. Many companies do not.
Don't Miss
Beach bumming at one of the resorts that line the Hotel Zone. Among the nicer options are the Fiesta Americana (check out the eight story all-hand-made palapa lobby) and Sheraton Bouganvilas (the closest resort hotel to town) but all are pleasant, accessible, and offer bars and restaurants.
The Malecon, the restored walkway that rings the bay -- occasionally waves crash against the rocks so hard that splumes of salt water rain down on passersby -- is known for its sculptures, including a nine-foot bronze sea horse. The original was knocked into the bay by Hurricane Kenna in 2002; the one there now is a replica created by artist Rafel Zamarippa. Two other sculptures of note are the whimsical high-backed chairs("La Rotunda del Mar") by renowned Guadalajara artist Alejandro Colunga and the sometimes controversial "In Search of Reason" -- a tall ladder being climbed by two children, reaching down to a mother figure below -- by Sergio Bustamonte. Opposite the main square is The Friendship Fountain, featuring three playful dolphins, created by California sculptor James Bottoms.
Every first-time visitor should pay homage to the flick "The Night of the Iguana," an all-star effort starring Richard Burton, Ava Gardner and Deborah Kerr. The movie was filmed here and Burton bought Casa Kimberly (Calle Zaragoza 445) for Taylor, then purchased the house across the narrow cobbled street and connected the two by a precious pink bridge that arches over the lane. You can tour part of Casa Kimberly.
El Centro, or downtown Puerto Vallarta, is filled with colonial architecture, a main square (Plaza de Armas) near the Malecon that often has bands playing, and the Cathedral of Our Lady of Guadalupe (located at Calle Hidalgo), the religious anchor of the city. Built over a 12-year period starting in 1929, the church is filled with architectural detail. The lacy crown on top of the bell tower was replaced after an earthquake destroyed the original, which was said to be a replica of a tiara worn by the Emperor Maximillian.
Shopping in Puerto Vallarta is a mixed bag. There are lots of touristy trinkety shops that pretty much sell all the same stuff: cheap silver jewelry, pottery and glassware. Most are centered on the streets surrounding the town's main plaza. Highlights -- if you're interested in more distinctive buys -- include Cachet (Morelos 664-A Centro) for gorgeous Mexican household furnishings, Sucesos (Libertad 233) for handpainted, one-of-a-kind cotton fashions, and Sergio Bustamante Galeria (Paseo Diaz Ordaz) for funky sculptures. Other cool finds include Hecho o Mano (Zaragoza 160), which sells beautiful crafty home-oriented merchandise, from candles to wrought-iron sculptures, and Cotton Club Boutique (Ignacio L. Vallarta 150) and Gueros (Zaragoza 160) for pretty cotton fashions. At Mundo Maya (Morelos 270) you can watch artisans create hand-blown glass sculptures (they make beautiful glassware) or pick up nifty recreations of Mayan artifacts (profits are donated to environmental causes); beware, however, the on-site time share pitch salespeople. And remember, the sign for the peso is the same as the sign for the U.S. dollar ($), so be careful to make sure you know which currency is quoted.
Rio Cuale Flea Market (El Centro, by the river) might belong under "shopping" but it's really a category unto itself. The two-story market, filled with vendor stalls, is an ideal place to test your bargaining skills. Here you'll find leather goods, woven goods, pottery and silver (which used to be a good value in Mexico but is now a tourist's black hole). Try to shop just before you head back to the Marina Vallarta and your ship; that's when you can get the best bargains, up to 60 percent off the original asking price. Before that, go for a walk along the river and especially visit the island in the middle, which is shady, cool and colorful.
Been There, Done That
Become a tequila connoisseur at the new La Casa Del Tequila (Morelos 589), which has a tasting bar and sells upscale shot glasses and tequila brands. It's also got a charming restaurant offering freshly made quesadillas, salsas and tacos.
Intrepid and adventurous explorers can check out the region's jungles and waterfalls via Bike Mex Adventures (Calle Guerrero 361, 322-223-1834), which offers half- and full-day trips for all experience levels. Bike Mex provides the equipment and snacks, and tours generally head into the mountains and, time permitting, include swimming expeditions.
The eco-inclined can go whale watching, visit a turtle camp, try sea kayaking and watch birds via numerous outfitters such as Ecotours de Mexico (Ignacio L. Vallarta 243, www.ecotoursvallarta.com).
Cigar aficionados can hang out in the other-world "men's club" of La Casa del Habano (Aldama #174), Puerto Vallarta's most upscale humidor and shop for Cubans. Downstairs, the cozy, clubby (cigar-friendly of course) bar, offering everything from cappuccino to malt whiskey to tequila, is a great hideaway.
Boca de Tomatlan is a quaint little village near Mismaloya, with shops and palapa restaurants. Take a bus from El Centro (downtown) or a cab (about $15 U.S.), and spend the day.
Golf
Two courses, just minutes away from the Marina Vallarta in Vista Vallarta, in the Sierra Madre foothills, have gained acclaim since they were built in 2001. The Jack Nicklaus Signature Course is closer to the water, while the Tom Weiskopf Signature Course appears carved out of the jungle. Both are par 72, with longer fairways on the Nicklaus course and a tighter layout on the Weiskopf. (phone: 52-329-290-0030)
One of the most highly lauded courses in Puerto Vallarta (and one of the priciest) is the Nicklaus-designed course at the Four Seasons Resort in Punta Mita. Eight holes are at the edge of the ocean, and one, a par three, 190 yards, can only be reached via a sandbar at low tide. (phone: 52-329-291-6000)
Located right in the Marina Vallarta area is the Marina Vallarta Golf Club, with a jungle-like course featuring spectacular foliage, indigenous birds and iguanas. You can rent clubs and play at a reasonable rate not too far from your ship; in fact, on some of the holes that have ocean views, you might even be able to see your vessel at the dock. (phone: 52-329- 221-0545)
Beaches
Best Beach for a Half-Day Visit: Any of the beaches fronting resorts along the Golden Zone hotel district, walkable from the port.
Best Beach for Active Types: Playa Los Muertos Beach (head to La Palapa for great peoplewatching and cocktails).
Beach as Cinematic Setting: Playa Mismaloya, set in a cove, was the site of filming for "The Night of the Iguana." Requires a taxi ride.
Lunching
In town:
For an ultra-casual, ultra-local experience, check out Cocina Economica (Mercado Municipal, from 9 a.m.) at the Rio Cuale Bazaar. The restaurant serves simple Mexican fare in the center of the busy market (try the chicken tacos).
For meals with a view, try the River Cafe (Isla Rio Cuale 4, from 8 a.m.) or Oscar's Bar & Grill (the beach at the Rio Cuale, from 8 a.m.). For vegetarian fare, locals love 3 Papaya (Calle Abusolo 169). Tequila's, located across from the Malecon with a view of the water and sculptures, has tables out on a second-floor patio and reasonably priced lunches (8 a.m. to 11 p.m.).
Just for fun try No Name Cafe, (Morelos 460) located at the north end of the Malecon. Acclaimed for having the best ribs in Vallarta, even better, it's air-conditioned.
At the Marina:
Mariscos 8 Tostadas (Quilla y Proa Local 28-29) is only open from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m. because it only brings in enough fresh seafood to last during those hours. A favorite with locals, it's often crowded, but the seafood tostadas and other freshly created specialties are worth the wait.
Las Palomas Doradas (inside the Small Boat Marina) is the place to lunch when you want a romantic, unhurried experience. Open from 8 a.m. to 11 p.m., the restaurant offers local specialties with a French flair.
La Ribera, (Paseo de la Marina Norte 585) at the Velas Vallarta Grand Suite Resort, is a beachside terrace restaurant featuring steaks, lobster and traditional Mexican cuisine in a resort setting. It's open for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The sunsets, beach and small-boat vistas are stunning
Staying in Touch
El Kiosko, located at the Marina at Plaza Marisol, offers high-speed Internet service for a very reasonable price, and has international telephones available.
Internet B@r (Plaza Neptuna E-1 at the Marina) serves coffee, breakfast and sandwiches as well as high-speed Internet connections.
NetStop, downtown (Morelos 671), offers both an Internet center and international phone calls, plus fax, printing and scanner services.
Eclipse CyberCafe (several locations in El Centro) has Internet service, color printers and scanners, free coffee, and video games.
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